The Sea (A Photo Blog)

I like living by the sea. And it's not the first time I have done so, much to my mother's annoyance, who has always wanted to live at the seaside and never managed to actually do it somehow. I've lived on the south coast of Devon, the west coast of Wales and on the east coast in Lincolnshire. All these places had their merits and I loved living in all of them. Wales had some fantastic storms in the winter, sending shingle from the beach up onto the promenade and I used to love sitting in my bay window watching the waves crash under the pier. The south coast was glorious in the summer and although I only lived there for just over a year, I enjoyed many gentle sun-drenched walks along the seafront. By the time I lived in Lincolnshire I had a family and we spent many a Sunday getting burned shoulders whilst building sandcastles on the massive beaches at Skegness and Mablethorpe.

And now? Two thousand kilometers further south and the sea is still the same. The tide comes in and the tide goes out. It's still cold when you dip your toes in. I think for me the big difference isn't actually the sea. It's the sky. The rich blue colour of the cloudless sky somehow seems to invigorate and make the seaside views even more stunning. There are some breathtakingly beautiful views along the promenade between Cascais and Estoril, and so, I've gathered together some of the photo's that I've taken since moving here, and posted them below for you viewing pleasure.

The promenade at Cascais

The view from Estoril with Cascais Marina in the distance.

Cascais in the distance.

The view down onto the promenade from the platform of Monte Estoril train station.

The view in the other direction towards Estoril...

In summer, when the tide is high, the young and brave dive from the end of the pier.

Spending the afternoon walking along the beach is all well and good, but the scenery is just as stunning at other times of the day too. In fact it really is well worth the effort of getting out of bed for a glimpse of the sunrise...

Estoril at sunrise.

Standing on the beach, looking back towards Estoril on a balmy September evening.

Technically speaking, Estoril and Cascais lie along the Tagus estuary. I'm not a geographer so please don't ask me where the river ends and the sea starts! All I know is that the Tagus a very busy river, used by many different types of boats from enormously large tankers and cargo vessels right down to the much smaller pleasure dingies and fishing boats that fill Cascais harbour.

Old and new boats travel up and down the river Tagus.

Cascais Marina.

Finally, I'm going to finish with a picture that I took on a day out with my family to the beach at Carcavelos, which is about half between Cascais and Lisbon. It was Boxing Day (which incidentally is not celebrated in Portugal) and although there are a few wispy clouds in the sky and it was cold enough for hats and coats, it was, as you can see, still a very beautiful day.

Carcavelos beach on Boxing Day. 

Let Sleeping Dogs Lie

My neighbour has a dog. It is very cute. It's kind of like a German Shepherd, but smaller. It may be a pup, because I'm sure it has grown since we first moved here. It doesn't bark a lot and is generally a very well behaved and lovely doggy. Oh, and it lives on the garage roof. Yes, your read that right. It lives on the top of the garage. Most of the time anyway. With many Portuguese houses having their garage roofs decked out all nice, as a place to sit and enjoy the sunshine, it seems to be perfectly normal behaviour and also somewhat sensible to make the best use of your flat garage roof as some kind of terrace. Some people prefer to make a more functional use of the space with perhaps a strategic placement of a washing line. My neighbours have exactly such an arrangement, however, I have yet to see them using it. Perhaps (and this is purely guesswork) it is because the cute little doggy would come up the steps onto the roof and chew his way through all the nice clean clothes? Perhaps the dog likes to spend time up on the garage roof because from this higher vantage point he can see out over the neighbourhood a little, keeping check on which other doggies might be trying to invade his territory? Regardless of the reason, it is enormously cute that he's there every morning when I open my front door, looking down at me, and I can look up and greet him with a hearty, "Olá cão!"

Please, No Doggy Presents!
Wait a minute! Other dogs might invade his territory? Well, not quite. For a start, the steps up to the roof would be completely inaccessible to any stray doggies. However, I'm sure my little rooftop canine friend does not see it that way, since the other main place to keep your dog while you are out at work during the day is apparently on the street, meaning that at any time an enemy dog could come walking past, and heaven forbid, venture down the alleyway into what he would clearly perceive to be his territory! Seriously though, letting your dog roam the streets is (or so I'm led to believe) completely illegal, although it does seem to be surprisingly tolerated. My instinctive reaction to this tolerance was at first for fear of the safety of my children but there are other implications too. The inevitable result of having dogs roaming the streets the entire day is that they leave little (or sometimes not so little) presents in the road. On the plus-side, I did notice this convenient poop-bag dispenser (pictured) while I was out walking the other day. It is placed just outside a small shop presumably for the use of customers that tie up their dogs (to the ring, also provided) while they shop and come out to find an item that was not on their shopping list! It's very sad that there are not a lot more of these dispensers, and in fact, this is the only one I am aware of. On the other hand, dogs that roam the streets on their own all day are not very likely to use these bags anyway owing to a distinct lack of opposable thumbs! Whichever way you slice it, there simply doesn't seem to be the culture of cleaning up after you dog here in Portugal as there is in England. And it's a great shame. Anyway, moving on...

Another neighbour's dog seems to spend it's days sleeping on the crossroads just down the street. He's an old dog. His eyes are clouded through and when he walks about he walks slowly and laboriously. He doesn't walk much though. As I've said, he sleeps. Usually in a shaded area, in the gutter, by a garden wall. And as the sun travels across the sky through the day he'll get up and walk over to the other side of the crossroads to a different shady spot. His owners leave out food and water for him by their gate. Perhaps he likes sleeping out on the crossroads. Or perhaps there simply isn't room inside the owners house or garden to keep him? Who knows for what reason his owners think that the best place for him to be is sleeping out on the crossroads? I had in incontinent cat once, but that's another story altogether, and so back to the dog blog.

Most people do what seems to me to be the most sensible and decent thing and keep their dogs inside their gardens. This for the most part is absolutely fine, except when one of the yappy little blighters spots me walking past their garden through a slit in the fence and the consequent sudden cacophony of canine excitement makes me jump six feet into the air! No, joking aside, it is also a great shame that many Portuguese gardens, especially here in the suburbs, are small and paved, which is not ideal for keeping a dog. Even in larger gardens, not many folks have grass as it is difficult to look after in the dry heat of the summer, probably more so if you ave a dog running around on it. Furthermore, I hardly ever see anyone out walking a dog. The Portuguese have a reputation as a nation of animal lovers, so I do sincerely hope that the reason I do not see people out walking with their dogs is simply because I do not go walking at the same time of day or in the same places as people like to walk their dogs.

Maybe I have to get through any preconceived ideas about dog culture here in Portugal. I have yet to see any kind of harm being done to, or indeed by, a dog since moving here. I mean yes, the roadside "presents" are certainly not nice. And some people keep their dogs in places that, to my decidedly English brain, are strange places, but I'm sure they have their reasons. But is it really that bad? Well, my rooftop friend has (admittedly uncharacteristically) just spent over an hour and a half barking his blooming head off at an unknown intruder. I hope it was the ginger cat that keeps sneaking into my garden...

Full-on Weather (Part 2)

Well the dry weather continues and although it's very nice for some, I am reminded often that it is bringing desperate times to many people the length and breadth of Portugal. I had a letter yesterday from an English friend who now lives down south in the Alentejo. She has a small farmhouse with a couple of horses, some chickens, a multitude of cats and a dog. Anyway, in her letter she commented on how the lack of rain means that she is having to keep a very close eye on her horses. The dry weather has resulted in the grass not growing sufficiently enough to graze them and the water levels in the barragem, the horse's only real source of drinking water, are very low.

Then this morning I was passed a copy of The Portugal News. The headline reads, "Driest February On Record" and goes on to tell how the weather over the past few years has truly been "Full On" in one way or another...

  • Winter 2010 - Wettest since 1870.
  • Summer 2010 - Hottest for 79 years, with July being the hottest since 1931.
  • May 2011 - Hottest on record.
  • Summer 2011 - One of the coolest and wettest on record.
  • October 2011 - Hottest on record.
  • February 2012 - Driest on record, as the headline reported.

I suppose I should mention at this point that, after what has so far been a very cloudy day, the heavens have finally opened, the rain is pouring down and lightning cracks the sky to a literally thunderous applause from above.  The article in The Portugal News did suggest that the rains would not come until the end of the month, but I very much doubt that anyone will be complaining, certainly not least my friend's horses.

<Takes a break to do mundane stuff, like cooking, washing up etc...>

So, it's still raining. I'm sure that there will be many a happy Portuguese farmer right now, looking out at the rain, hoping it will continue. I've already heard through facebook that the rain has subsided a little further south of here, dwindling away to light showers. The thunder and lightning has stopped here, but the rain persists. And it's still quite heavy. And so, to close, and re-iterate, the weather here in Portugual is most certainly "Full-on" and, if I may quote the president of the Portuguese Met Office,
"Extreme phenomena could start having a greater frequency than they have had in the past. We are constantly setting new records for the hottest summers."
I suppose we all have a different angle on the weather and what we want from it. For me, right now, I'm enjoying the sunny springtime weather, and relish the thought of a blistering summer, but I do feel slightly guilty for this pleasure.

Full-on Weather

It's lovely here. I can't believe that it's still only just the beginning of March.  The sun is shining and it feels very much like an average English summers day. Well actually, that's not quite true. Maybe an average spring day, because it is a little overcast today. But it hasn't been. For the last few weeks it has been really quite warm and very sunny indeed for the time of year.  I'd almost forgotten what clouds looked like.

Look at me? Us English types just can't stop blathering on about the weather can we? The thing is though, it's the same case for the Portuguese at the minute. They can't stop talking about the weather either. "It's not usually like this" they'll say. In fact, right now Portugal is stricken with drought. It's very very dry and many areas are desperate for some rain. My child's school teacher was telling me a few days ago about her northern farmer friend and all about how much his cows are suffering because of the dry weather.

Faro Airport suffers from storm damage, Oct 2011
It's been like this for a while too though.  In fact the last time we had a decent rainfall was way back in October of last year. And boy, did we get a "decent" amount of rain back then.  The Portuguese weather never seems to do anything by halves!  In fact, the storms were so bad that our roof sprung a leak.  Not a bad leak though, fortunately.  Faro Airport also suffered some roof damage in the storms, as you can see. (More about this here.) When I heard about this I kind of felt a little guilty about all the moaning I'd been doing regards the torrential rain that had actually only been going on for a couple of weeks.

Anyway, back to now. The weather report for today was for rain, but it didn't. The weather report for yesterday also said rain, which it did, but only for about 5 minutes, during which time it absolutely threw it down.  Like I said, Portuguese weather never seems to do anything by halves.  A friend of mine, who lives across the other end of our little village was telling me, over a couple of beers, that we actually get more annual rainfall here that in Manchester (where he's from), but we get far fewer rainy days.  Now you don't need a degree in rocket science to work out that this means that when it rains here, it rains hard.  For me, this is a good thing, since I hate drizzle.  I do.  I really can't stand it.  I'd much prefer a complete downpour any day of the week.  Now, I've not lived here long, but I do hope that this trend in Portuguese rainy weather continues, especially considering that less rainy days also means more sunny days, which is most definitely a good thing!

So?  My take on the Portuguese weather?  "It's lovely here."